On a warm day in December…
Most often surfing in New England starts out big with victory at sea conditions, but you go because many times it is flat the next morning, this was the last of three days of waves.
Early in the morning, my neighbor, Mark, saw me loading my board in my truck. He had missed the previous days of swell and was chomping at the bit for some action. We drove to our favorite spot only to find it empty with chest high waves peeling down the coast and perfect glass. As I remember, the water was the same temperature as the air, mid 50’s, and we were both testing the limits of our 3/2 wet suits, but luckily the sun was out making it a very pleasant day. We surfed for 3 hrs, just the 2 of us, often splitting the peak or yelling “Yea, yea!” as the other flew down the line.
As the tide came in, the waves died and the wind came up making it a clear decision that our session was over. Both of us were lucky as we rode a good wave all the way in to the rocky shore. A friend recently sent me this photo and it brought back great memories of that day and the ones before it. Now, I look forward to the ones to come.